Some historians think macaroni and cheese became a simple thing during the Depression, when “government cheese” was a commodity handed out to people struggling for food. An African-American writer based in Colorado, he tackled the question in his first book, “Soul Food: The Surprising Story of American Cuisine One Plate at a Time.” So where did people branch off over macaroni and cheese? Adrian Miller has tried to find out. “I do everything - I’ll do any sides, the meat, I plan the menu, I am my mother’s assistant. “I hate to brag, but people really love my cooking,” she says. Here’s how loaded the issue can become: Beal, who is single, loves to cook. “You have to be a tested, tried-and-true, mac-&-cheese maker.” If you’re invited to someone’s house, especially for a holiday, you can’t just bring the mac and cheese, you know. Not just anybody is allowed to make the mac and cheese. In black families, you associate macaroni and cheese with comfort, with your mother, your aunts. If there’s a barbecue, somebody has mac and cheese. “I associate mac and cheese with every holiday. The white kids were having it just for dinner. “I never knew that people ate macaroni and cheese for dinner, not as a side item, until I got into high school. “I never knew it’s a cultural thing,” she says.
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